Conversations with a noose by the river Thames

This replica of the original noose connects this pub to a lot of stories

‘What is this noose doing out there?’ I asked as we watched it swing ominously in the wind that blew in from somewhere in the direction of Tower bridge in London.

‘I really am not sure,’ said the young Frenchman who was clearly not aware of any stories that would be connected to this noose. But the senior bartender came along and told us the story of the notorious Judge Jeffreys, also known as ‘The hanging Judge’. ‘He was always have his pint here as he watched criminals hanged,’ said the bartender.

‘Can I then have a Judge Jeffreys drink please,’ I asked, ‘if there is any by this name.’

‘There is none. But this does sound like a brilliant idea.’ And after some time I did have a silent conversation with this noose in the hope that it would gift me a few stories that is has been witness to.

This pub by the Thames in the lovely Wapping area was known as ‘The Pelican’ years ago in 1520 but then those were times when smugglers, river bandits, pirates, and common burglars or thieves came here oftener than anyone else. Various sources claim that over time, this place changed its name from ‘The Pelican’ to ‘The Devil’s Tavern’ and then finally to ‘The Prospect of Whitby’. The East London History website writes that it was in the early 18^th century that ‘the pub got its current name for the first time when it was rebuilt after a fire that burned down the original building. It is thought that the landlord at the time named the pub after a collier that used to moor on the bank outside on a regular basis’. ‘The Prospect of Whitby,’ said the bartender, ‘was the shipping port and people wanting directions for the pub were probably asked to go to the one next to this place. We believe this is how our current name was born.’

The place is spacious and even has a little garden by the river. A few of the tables towards the rear of the pub have large windows from where one can see the Thames flowing… and a replica of the infamous noose dangling! I’m really not surprised to read that the artists Turner and Whistler came here often and even sketched views from the pub. Charles Dickens and Samuel Pepys too came here for their drinks… and probably got inspiration for a few of their writings. I’m wondering if they too conversed with the same noose that we see today.

After all, the notorious 17^th century judge must have read the details of hundreds of criminals before sentencing them to death… I’m sure some of those stories are still floating around waiting to be picked up and put into words. Another fact that I read on the plaques kept around the pub was about Captain Kidd, the disreputable pirate, who was also hanged on Judge Jeffreys orders, in 1701. Thus this execution dock seems to be a great place in contemporary times for hunters of stories to come by, sit with their pint, and wait for the noose to whisper some in their ears. But let me add here that there is nothing spooky about this pub. The drinks are crisp and fresh. The food is fabulous. We had smoked salmon with crushed avocado with a half-boiled egg and loved this charming concoction. The service does tend to be a bit lax because one of the servers did come to us thrice as he had forgotten what we had ordered for. But then this just adds a smile to the somber noose grinning at us from outside.

To quote from the Wikipedia page on this pub, it was ‘in the 17th century that it became the hostelry of choice of “Hanging” Judge Jeffreys, scourge of the Monmouth Rebellion. He lived nearby and a replica gallows and noose hangs by the Thameside window, commemorating his custom. He was chased by anti-Royalists into the nearby Town of Ramsgate, captured and taken to the Tower for his own safety. According to legend, criminals would be tied up to the posts at low tide and left there to drown when the tide came in. Execution Dock was actually by Wapping Old Stairs and generally used for pirates. In the eighteenth century, the first fuchsia plant in the United Kingdom was sold at the pub’.

The dove on Hermitage Wharf is a memorial sculpture designed by Wendy Taylor. The memorial sculpture is in memory of East London civilians killed in the Second World War and the dove ‘is intended to suggest hope, rather than dwell intrusively on the dead’

From the way a traveler sees things, I must add that the walk from the Tower Bridge to this place was a brisk couple of miles meandering through a lot of contemporary architecture, a few expensive looking eateries, and a large part of the journey was on a cobbled road which made the entire experience quaint and we were ready to learn about Judge Jeffreys by the time we reached this pub. We were also a bit hungry and looking out for a nice drink as well. The dove on Hermitage Wharf is a memorial sculpture designed by Wendy Taylor. The memorial sculpture is in memory of East London civilians killed in the Second World War and the dove ‘is intended to suggest hope, rather than dwell intrusively on the dead’. The cruises on the river, the grey clouds in the sky, and gulls attempting their own conversations with almost everything are simply lovely.

Admire the Thames, love the dove, and converse with the noose and you’ll know you’ve had another great day in London.

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The Prospect of Whitby, London… pub stories

The bar in this pub that was once called ‘The Pelican’

A bit about the history of this pub is there on small plaques and posters inside

London’s oldest riverside inn since 1520

Take the Thames Path from St Katherine’s Dock towards Wapping to reach ‘The Prospect of Whitby’

Walk by some fabulous modern architecture… the area is a mix of new and old

Old architecture can still be seen here…

Cobbled roads and footpaths… some parts have these structures that I’m told are openings leading to water and gas lines

This public art installation is interesting as it appeared like our own SBI logo turned upside-down and twisted a bit!

The noose is visible from inside as well as from outside the pub

The walk has plenty of benches on the way for those who wish to sit and relax for a while before continuing

Another charming example from the past… the area was once full of active docks and storage houses

One can sit inside the pub and look at the waves living their own restless lives outside

This picture did make me think… each window pane is like one part of our life with entirely different stories that seem unconnected and yet form one complete picture

The food at this pub is delicious…

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Arvind Passey
30 June 2017